Outstitch or Stitch Down Technique

Outstitch (or stitchdown) technique is a footwear construction method. In outstitch construction, the upper is flanged out over the top of the midsole and the midsole is fastened to the upper by stitching through it. Then the midsole is glued to the sole.  The stitching around the outside edge of the shoe is visible and makes this shoe easy to resole multiple times. For the custom made outstitch shoe, we measure both feet of each client. For the Virtual Live Zoom Shoemaking we offer standard size patterns. Options to learn our Patternmaking System HERE We have a pattern system that includes taking measurements in several places on the foot.   We draw a pattern based on those measurements. We have a formula that adds room for socks, takes into account the stitching around the outside and leaves room for an insole pad that can include an arch support or not. This measuring and pattern system can be applied to extremely wide, narrow or hard to fit feet as well as different sized feet on the same person. Not needing a last to make a pair of shoes allows for greater freedom in creating a custom fit for the client. Since all outstitch shoes are pattern based, the only place on the shoe that needs molding is the toe box before finishing. After the shoe is stitched down and soled, we create that toe box by wetting the leather and stretching it to the right shape and height with newsprint paper packed so tightly it resembles the hardness of wood. We are actually “lasting” the toebox with this stuffing. Once we hard pack the toe and get the height of the toe box we want, we leave that form in the shoe until the leather dries. When that packing is removed, the toe box height remains.  These shoes can be resoled multiple times and will last for years due to the quality of the materials.