Let’s get started:

• Download and print out the patterns in your size.
• Thicker paper ( 32lb) makes it easier to punch the holes and trace the outline.
• Make sure your cutter is sharp and steady. The sharper the cutter, the easier, the smoother the cut, the better the result. Otherwise use a good leather scissors
• Use good transparent (scotch) or paper tape.
• Get something to cut on. A cutting mat is best. Thick solid cardboard also works.
• A silver-pen works great for tracing the pattern. You can wipe most of it off after and you can see it on black leather/black sole.
• We are ready to start making! Take your time and enjoy! :)

 

 

 

Step 1: Cut out the paper patterns with a knife or scissors and punch the holes. 

– If you don’t feel like punching all these holes you can also use an awl (or even a scissors) and pierce through the paper directly on the leather to mark the holes.

Step 2: Trace/draw the patterns on the leather with a silver-pen (front or back of the leather).

– If you trace on the front of the leather the paper patterns are for the left shoe. The back of the patterns are for the right shoe.

– Trace on the backside of the leather to be sure there will be no tracing line on the outside of shoe.

– ALERT: If you trace on the back of the leather, then the front of the paper patterns are for the right shoe. – So you don’t forget: mark the leather parts with ‘L’ and ‘R’.

 

Step 3: Cut the leather.

– Cut on the inside of the line so it is exactly the size of the pattern. Also, in this way the inside (or outside) of the shoe will be nice and clean.

– Try to make long, fluent, clean, straight cuts to get the best result.

– Choose the right position to nish a cut in one time.

– Make some test cuts on the left-over leather.

 

Step 4. Punch 2.0 mm stitch-holes and lace-holes (3.0 mm or bigger) in the leather.

 

Step 5. Stitch the strap and the upper side parts at the center back.

– Cut off the sharpedge(skive) on the top of the strap with a cutter or sandpaper on the back side of the leather. This helps prevent irritation on the heel.

– Take 70 cm of the thread and put it through the needle. No knot needed.

– Place the strap on one of the side parts. Start stitching at the bottom on the outside and just leave about 5 cm thread hanging.

– Stitch by following the holes to the top, to the other part and to the bottom again. Some tension, not too tight, not too loose.

– Then go around the second time to make a full stitch.

– At the end make a knot at the bottom with the beginning and the end of thread.

– The insole will cover the knot

 

Step 6. Mark the holes on the sole.

– Place the hole-pattern on top of the sole.

– Make sure it matches point A,B,C and D. (The ends of the patches on the sole) – Tape it to the sole on 2-4 points.

– Mark the holes inside the gutter of the sole.

 

Step 7. Mark points E, F, G and H on the inside of the sole. 

 

Step 8. Punch the holes in the sole.

– ATTENTION! The 2.0 mm hole is slightly bigger than the gutter, make sure you don’t go above the gutter. The top of the hole should be at the top of the gutter. The bottom of the hole will go a little bit under the gutter.

– The rubber might remain in the hole; just take the needle and push it out.

 

Step 9. Prepare stitching the upper to the sole.

– Take about 170 cm thread (3 times the outline of the sole) for the first sole.

– Put thread through the needle. Pull it about 50 cm through the needle.

– Align the upper with the marks on the sole.

 

Step 10. Stitch the upper to the sole.

– Start stitching at the back, next to the strap, on the inside. (in the video we start in the middle, but at the back is better)

– Pull the thread through and leave about 5 cm of thread. Just like you stitched the upper.

– Work towards the front.

– Add the nose piece (E). The nose piece and side pieces share 2 holes on both sides.

– At the nose just stitch around all the way loosely (the rst 20 stitches).

– After, pull each stitch by hand to give it the right tension so the leather kisses the sole well.

– Pull a bit, but not too much. It is normal that the edge of the sole gets a little curvy because of the tension. The trick is to pull it straight the second round of stitching.

– At the back-strap make sure you stitch through the right holes: the ones above the bottom holes.

– When you reach the starting point turn around (you will see) and stitch the second round to make the full stitch.

– Try not to stitch through the thread. In this way you can still adjust the tension later.

 

Step 11. Make a straight stitch/edge.

– The trick is to give the stitching the right amount of tension. The tension of the rst and second round should be the same.

– As you go around the second time focus on the getting it straight. When you pull the thread, check if the stitch before is straight. If it is curvy then either you pull too hard or not hard enough.

 

Step 12. The second time at the nose is the toughest part. When it is hard to find the hole from the inside just try to look between the edge of the sole and the leather to check where the needle is. 

 

Step 13. Check if the sole is straight. If not, change tension of the thread by pulling stitches one by one and go around. 

 

Step 14. Make a knot in the end. The insole will cover it.

 

Step 15. Stitch the next one.

 

Step 16. Put in the insoles and laces.

 

Step 17. Try ‘em on! 

 

Step 18. Snap a picture and tag them with #Sneakerkit 

– Or email us your pics

– We can’t wait to see them!